Winner of the James Beard/ KitchenAid Cookbook of the Year 2000 and Winner of the Beard Award for the Best Writing on Food 2000.
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November 20, 2008
Mangia Bene

    In Alexandria, in Cairo, in the villages of the Nile Delta, a favorite breakfast dish is fatir (pronounced fa-TEER). A fatir is a fluffy pan-cooked pastry, a cross between a puff pastry beignet and a crêpe sometimes served as a savory as well as a sweet. The pastry is fluffy, and laminated as modern bakers call it, because the dough is folded upon itself. A delicious savory fatir is fatir bi'l-sakhina, there being two varieties of this dish; in the first the pastry is covered with a sauce made of vegetables cooked in vinegar and garlic and the second is a sauce made with chicken poached with onions and water buffalo samna (clarified butter). A wonderful sweet fatir can be made with apricot preserves and confectioner's sugar, as well as fresh fruit such as bananas. Fatir, derived from the word meaning "to break the fast, to breakfast," is, in fact, often eaten at breakfast.