Spinach
Ispanak
Region: Turkey
Category: Vegetables
Season: Any
Difficulty: Easy

On one of my research trips to Turkey, I spent some time in the Akdag Mountains west of Denizli. It was mid-March, and I was told that nearly three feet of snow had just melted. It was still bitterly cold when I stayed in the three-room inn run by Mestan Gökçe in the hamlet of Geyre. Just one little communal room of the inn was open, because it was the only room that had a wood-fired stove. My friend David Forbes and I ate well here, but one favorite dish was this recipe given to me by Mestan, who says it is how they make spinach in his village, Gökçeler Köyu, even farther up in the mountains. He simply called it "spinach," even when I pressed him for its name. It is very good, and should look gooey when done.

The Turks save the roots and stems of the spinach to make into a soup. Their flavor is different, more bitter, and therefore eaten with yogurt. Many Turkish dishes excel in twofold contrasts, between bitter and sweet and hot and cold. The hot spinach would get a dollop of cool yoghurt for a delightful taste and texture. And everything would get cleaned up with fresh bread.

[photo: Clifford A. Wright]

Yield: Makes 4 servings
Preparation Time: 40 minutes

10 ounces spinach, stems removed and washed well     1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil     1 medium-size onion, finely chopped     1 celery stalk, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground coriander seed       Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste     3 tablespoons cooked long-grain rice

1. Bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil and plunge the spinach in for 3 to 4 minutes. Drain, saving 1 cup of the spinach water. Coarsely chop the spinach and set aside.

2. In a medium-size saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat, then cook the onion and celery, stirring, until soft and translucent, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the spinach, 1/2 cup spinach water, and the coriander, season with salt and pepper, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the spinach is gooey looking, 15 to 20 minutes, adding more spinach water if necessary to keep it saucey. Stir in the rice and continue cooking for 3 to 4 minutes. Serve.

Variation: 

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Posted: 01/11/2007