
Kisskiss bi'l-Bisbas
Region: Tunisia
Category: Rice, Couscous, and Other Grains
Season: Any
Difficulty: Labor Intensive
The Tunisians are big eaters of couscous and there are many varieties of hard wheat from which they can make it. A family eats the couscous as part of their midday meal on a low table. Couscous and various soups are typical family fare during the winter. This recipe is one I had at the Couscous Diari factory, the world's largest couscous factory in Sfax, Tunisia. The company's North American representative, Samy Slimi, explained how to make it. Before proceeding, read about preparing couscous.
[photo: Clifford A. Wright]
Yield: Makes 6 to 8 servings
Preparation Time: 5:45 hours
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1. Place half the couscous on a platter or earthenware dish with shallow sides (you could also use a large aluminum roasting pan, the kind you would use to roast a turkey). Dissolve 1 teaspoon of the salt in 1 cup of the water. Spread the couscous around and begin moistening it with the salted water a little at a time until all of the water is used--do not pour the water in all at once. Every time you add water, rub it into the grains, breaking up any lumps. Use up to 1/4 cup of water at first, working the grains with your fingers to separate them and moisten them evenly. Work in a circular, rotating motion, constantly raking and forming the couscous into small marble shapes of soft dough. Rake them with one hand and with the other rub them into smaller pellets about 3 millimeters in diameter. If the mixture becomes too wet, add a little dry couscous and start again. Continue in this manner, adding more couscous and water, until all the grains are moistened. The couscous should be evenly wet, not soggy, and even-sized. If necessary, although I don't do it, shake the couscous through a large-holed, flat, and high-sided sieve, breaking up large pellets with one hand. You may want to sieve two or three times to make sure that each pellet is individual, although the same can be achieved by properly raking and rubbing with your fingers.
2. Arrange the couscous on a large white dish towel or a section of a sheet and dry for 1 to 2 hours (depending on the humidity in the air). Using your fingers, brush the little pellets of semolina with up to 1/ 4 cup of the olive oil so they are all coated. Cut a piece of cheesecloth and with it cover the holes on the bottom of the couscousiere and up the sides. The cheesecloth is not used to keep the couscous from falling through--it won't--but to facilitate transferring it during the several drying processes. Transfer the couscous to the top portion of the couscousiere. Set aside until needed.
3. In the bottom portion of a couscousiere (the makful), heat the remaining cup olive oil, then cook the onion until yellow and soft over medium heat, about 6 minutes, stirring a few times. Add the dissolved tomato paste, garlic, paprika, coriander seeds, caraway, cloves, the remaining 3 teaspoons salt, and the harisa to the couscousiere. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, adding up to 1 1/ 2 cups water from time to time during the next 10 minutes.
4. Increase the heat to medium, add 2 cups water to the bottom portion, place the top portion on top and steam the chopped fennel, coriander leaves, and scallions for 20 minutes, covered, fluffing once in a while with a fork. You may want to seal the two portions together with a rope made of flour and water (called the qufila in Arabic). Mix 1/2 cup flour together with enough water to roll it out as you would play dough. (Some couscousieres fit tight enough so that you need not make a seal. If you have improvised a couscousiere with a pot and a colander, then you should make the seal.)
5. Remove the top of the couscousiere and transfer the couscous to a cooling platter by picking up the ends of the cheesecloth and lifting it out. Break the grains up with your fingers, rubbing and aerating. Add the steamed vegetables and toss well. Add 2 cups water to the broth and return the couscous and vegetables to the top portion of the couscousiere and then place on top of the makful, or bottom portion. Steam over a medium heat for 20 minutes, covered, fluffing occasionally with a fork.
6. Transfer the couscous and vegetables to the platter again and leave to cool and dry for 1 hour.
7. Return the couscous to the top portion again and again place the top portion on top of the makful. Add the potatoes and green long peppers to the couscous. If a lot of steam is escaping from where the top and bottom parts of the couscousiere meet, seal it with a rope made out of flour and water. Steam until the potatoes and peppers are tender, about 45 minutes, over a medium heat.
8. Transfer the couscous to a serving bowl or platter and pour one to two ladlefuls of sauce over the couscous. Stir and let the grains absorb the broth. Serve.
Posted: 01/11/2007
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