Risotto with Mussels
Risotto coi Peoci
Region: Italy, Veneto
Category: Rice, Couscous, and Other Grains
Season: Any
Difficulty: Easy but long cooking time

In the days of the Venetian republic, la Serenissima would spare nothing to properly regale the ambassadors to St. Marks with all the pomp and splendor befitting such a noble position. The state dinner was a notable event and the master chefs of the Doge would prepare an exquisite minestra di riso that centuries later evolved into the risottos we know today. Risotto coi pedocchi or peoci (Venetian dialect for mussels) is traditionally served on June 15 for the Feast of San Vito and Modesto and throughout the summer months. This preparation is also called alla gondoliera, the way the gondoliers liked it, pulling the clinging mussels off the sides of the buildings. 

    Mussels are cultivated in a stretch of coastline that runs parallel to the Lido di Venezia up to the village of Malamocco. In 1000 a mighty tidal wave destroyed much of the Lido but the local fishermen rebuilt their lives and their livelihood--the cultivation of mussels.

    The mussels used for this should be large. Clean the mussels under running water and pull off their beards.

[photo: Clifford A. Wright]

Yield: Makes 4 servings
Preparation Time: 1:15 hours

4 pounds mussels, debearded and washed well     3 cups fish broth     3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil     5 tablespoons unsalted butter     1 small onion, very finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, very finely chopped     1 1/2 cups arborio rice       Salt to taste     3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves       Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Soak the mussels in cold water to cover for 30 minutes. Place the mussels in a large pot or casserole over high heat and shake until they have opened, 8 and 10 minutes. Remove them from the pot; when they are cool enough to handle, remove the mussels from their shells and set aside. Discard any mussels that remain tightly shut. Strain the mussel juice through a double thickness of cheesecloth and save 1 cup of it, mixing it with the fish broth. Save some shells for decorating the serving platter if desired.

2. In a medium-size casserole, heat the olive oil and 2 1/ 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Once the butter has melted, cook the onion and garlic until the onion is translucent and slightly golden, 7 to 8 minutes, stirring frequently so the garlic doesn't burn. Pour in the rice and stir for 2 minutes to coat it. Now pour in 1 cup of the mussel-and-fish broth. Taste the broth and add salt if necessary. Once the liquid evaporates pour in another 1/ 2 cup of broth. Continue adding the remaining broth in smaller and smaller amounts as it evaporates, and is absorbed and cook until the rice is between al dente and tender, stirring almost constantly.

3. When the rice is done, stir in the reserved mussels, the parsley, remaining 2 1/ 2 tablespoons butter, and pepper. Stir until the butter melts, transfer to a serving platter, decorate with the mussel shells, and serve immediately.

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Posted: 01/10/2007