Braised Veal in the Style of the Camargue
Tendrons de Veau à la Gardiane
Region: France, Provence
Category: Veal
Season: Any
Difficulty: Easy but long cooking time

The powers to be in sixteenth century Arles launched a serious effort of reclamation that turned the malaria-infested Camargue into a land that could support modest stock rearing on its alluvial lands. Young calves were not in great abundance--they were little and skinny--but by the nineteenth century there were greater numbers of cattle and they found their way into braised dishes, a popular means of cooking because the pot could be left unattended.

This recipe is adapted from Jean-Noël Escudier’s late nineteenth century Provençal cookbook. It is excellent served with spaghetti moistened with the remaining sauce or with risotto alla milanese.

Yield: Makes 4 servings
Preparation Time: 2:40 hours

10 ounces pearl onions (about 3 cups)     3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil     One 3 1/2 -pound veal breast with bone in or veal rib roast, trimmed of fat       Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste     3 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed

1/4 pound mushrooms, stems removed and caps thinly sliced     1 cup dry white wine     1 cup finely chopped fresh or canned tomatoes     12 imported green olives, stoned and chopped

1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and blanch the pearl onions for 3 minutes to make it easier to peel them. Drain and slice off the root ends with a sharp paring knife. Peel by squeezing to pop off the skins.

2. In a small skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over medium-high heat, then cook the onions until softened, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring. Remove and set aside.

3. In a large casserole, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat, then brown the breast or rib roast on both sides, 4 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the garlic, mushrooms, and the onions. Stir to distribute around the casserole and pour in the wine and tomatoes. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 2 hours, stirring the sauce occasionally. Add the olives and cook another 15 minutes.

4. Transfer the veal breast to a serving platter. Surround the breast with the remaining vegetables in the casserole using a slotted ladle. Spoon some sauce over the veal breast and serve.

Posted: 01/09/2007

Referenced Recipes:

Risotto alla Milanese