Kusksi bi’l-'Asban
Region: Tunisia
Category: Rice, Couscous, and Other Grains
Season: Winter
Difficulty: Labor Intensive
The origin of the homemade
sausage, a kind of andouillette, used
in this Tunisian couscous may very well be a preparation that was born among
Andalusian Muslims who settled in Tunisia after the Christian Reconquest of
Spain, (Tunisia) (4)LO.jpg)
especially in towns like Testour.
Although I have no proof, I am led to believe this because it is known
that another famous Tunisian sausage, mirqāz
or mirkās (or merguez),
apparently had its roots in Muslim Spain.
On the other hand, I’ve heard it described as a Tunisian Jewish
specialty, which nevertheless may still have Iberian roots. The
reason I call for such a range in the weight of the 'aṣbān is because normally a Tunisian family would use
meat sparingly, for flavoring, yet whenever I have made my own 'aṣbān, most guests develop a
great love for these admittedly unusual sausages and eat far more than I
expect. The yield for this recipe is for
a large gathering of family or friends. If you would like to make a smaller yield
reduce all ingredients by two-thirds. I
believe it is at its most satisfying in the late fall. Read about preparing couscous first. If making your own sausage is too much labor
(it is labor intensive), you can buy
andouillette made of pork from Fabrique
Dèlice.
[photo: Clifford A. Wright]
Yield: Makes 18 servings
Preparation Time: 4 hours
9 cups raw couscous (about 4 ½ pounds)
2 cups lightly salted warm water
3 to 5 pounds 'aṣbān (see link below or procure store-bought pork andouillette sausage), to your taste
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
½ pound liyya (lamb fat; optional), chopped
¼ cup tomato paste
9 cups water
2 tablespoons harīsa (see link below) plus more for the table
1 tablespoon ground red Aleppo pepper or 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
1 pound young carrots, trimmed and peeled
1 pound small turnips, peeled and quartered
Salt to taste
1 pound boiling potatoes, such as Yukon gold, red potatoes or white potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 zucchini, peeled and quartered
1 ½ cups drained cooked chickpeas
¼ cup samna (clarified butter)
1 teaspoon bahārāt (see link below)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Place half the couscous on a platter or earthenware dish with shallow sides. (You could also use a large aluminum roasting pan, the kind you would use to roast a turkey.) Spread the couscous around and begin moistening with the warm salted water a little at a time until all of the water is used. Do not pour the water in all at once. Every time you add water, rub it into the grains, breaking up any lumps. You may or may not need all of the salted water. Use up to 1 cup at first, working the grains with your fingers to separate and moisten them evenly. Work in a circular, rotating motion, constantly raking and forming them into small marble shapes of soft dough. Rake with one hand and with the other rub them into smaller pellets about 3 millimeters in diameter. If the mixture becomes too wet, add a little dry couscous and start again. Continue in this manner, adding more couscous and water, until all the grains are moistened. The couscous should be evenly wet, not soggy, and even-sized. If necessary, although I don’t do it, shake the couscous through a large-holed, flat, and high-sided sieve, breaking up large pellets with one hand. You may want to sieve two or three times to make sure that each pellet is individual, although the same can be achieved by properly raking and rubbing with your fingers.
2. Arrange the couscous on a large white dish towel or a section of a sheet and dry for 1 to 2 hours (depending on the humidity in the air). Using your fingers, brush the little pellets of semolina with some olive oil so they are all coated. Cut a piece of cheesecloth and with it cover the holes on the bottom of the couscousière and up the sides. The cheesecloth is not used to keep the couscous from falling through, it won’t, but to facilitate transferring it during the several drying processes. Transfer the couscous to the top portion of the couscousière. Set aside until needed.
3. Place the 'aṣbān in a large pot of water and bring to just under a gentle boil. Keep the water just below a boil and poach over very low heat for 2 hours, without the water ever coming to a boil otherwise they might burst. Drain and set aside until needed.
4. In the bottom of the couscousière (called the makfūl) or a pot if you’re using one, heat the olive oil over high heat, then cook the onion and lamb fat (if using) until translucent, about 5 minutes, stirring. Dissolve the tomato paste in 1 cup water and add to the makfūl or pot with the harīsa and red pepper. Reduce the heat to medium, stir, and cook for 10 minutes. Add the carrots, turnips, and the remaining 8 cups water and bring to a boil.
5. Place the top portion of the couscousière (kiskis) with the couscous on top of the bottom portion (makfūl). Seal the two together with a rope made of flour and water (called the qufila in Arabic). Mix ½ cup flour together with enough water to roll it out as you would play dough. (Some couscousières fit tight enough so that you need not make a seal. If you have improvised a couscousière with a pot and a colander, then you should make the seal.) As soon as steam begins to rise through the couscous grains, about 4 minutes, reduce the heat to medium and cook 18 to 20 minutes, stirring and breaking up any lumps of couscous with a fork.
6. Remove the top of the couscousière and transfer the couscous to a cooling platter, break the grains up with your fingers, rubbing and aerating. Turn the heat off under the broth. Dry for 30 minutes to 1 hour.
7. Taste the broth and add salt, if necessary. Add water, too, if necessary, perhaps up to 4 cups. Add the potatoes, cardoons or zucchini and chickpeas to the broth. Return the couscous to the top portion of the couscousière and place over the broth. Reform the flour-and-water seal if using. Bring to a boil. As soon as the steam rises from the couscous, reduce the heat to medium and steam for 18 to 20 minutes. Remove the couscous to the cooling platter again and break up the grains with your fingers, rubbing and aerating. Turn the heat under the broth off, or keep over very low heat. Dry the couscous for 30 minutes.
8. Replace the couscous on top of the couscousière a third time. Bring the broth to a boil; when steam starts to rise, reduce the heat to medium. Steam the couscous for 20 minutes. Remove the top portion and add the cooked caṣbān to the broth. Replace the top portion and continue cooking for 10 minutes.
9. Pour the couscous into a large serving platter or bowl, fluffing with a fork. (Tunisian cooks do this, impossibly, with their hands). Stir in a ladle of broth, the samna, bahārāt, and black pepper. Stir and fluff so that it is well blended. Mold the couscous attractively in the platter and scatter the 'aṣbān, chickpeas, potatoes, carrots, zucchini, and turnips on top. Cover with aluminum foil and let rest for 10 minutes. Serve with extra harīsa and extra broth passed at the table.
Variation:
Note:
Posted: 10/25/2015
Needed Recipes:
Related Recipes:
Couscous with Chicken, Chickpeas, and Caramelized Onions
Referenced Recipes: