The meal eaten by the
seigneurs and big merchants in the Dra region of Morocco described by Ḥasan al-Wazan, known as Leo Africanus (c.
1465-1550), of "roast mutton and gruel
in a very fine puff pastry, layered like a lasagna, but more firm and thick
than that pasta used for lasagna,"
followed by couscous, was a rare occurrence, but the lasagna that he
mentions is interesting.  (2)LO.jpg)
He's comparing
this preparation of rich merchants with lasagna, a food he must be familiar
with from travels in North Africa. It is
one of the earliest mentions of its being in North Africa
with which I am familiar. Lasagna is
known today in North Africa, as we can see by this traditional recipe from the
Algerian oasis town of Biskra in the Sahara.
Biskra sits on the northern edge of the great desert, but
it is considered a southern town. This shakhshūkha is a pasta fresca in the form of
lasagne or pasta flakes, and not the vegetable-and egg-preparation that is
becoming more familiar throughout the European Mediterranean as a kind of
Tunisian ratatouille (called shakhshūkha),
nor is it the Moroccan salade composé of tomatoes and peppers.
In Biskra, shakhshūkha is the name of a very thin
fresh lasagna preparation cooked in a kiskis (couscousiere) with
a blazing hot sauce of lamb brains, tomatoes, and spices. This recipe is typical in oasis towns where
they also make a family of lasagna preparations, sometimes using mutton or
chicken or ultra-thin lasagne sheets in various shapes known as afá¹Ä«r
wa'l-qiṣīl (a kind of faá¹Ä«r,
made of young barley or wheat). Afá¹Ä«r
wa'l-qiṣīl is the name used by the people of the Kabylie of Algeria to
refer to a very thin pasta cut into strips like angel hair pasta, while in Algiers they call it qaá¹á¹a
wa ramy, "cut and throw," meaning the pasta is cut into strips and thrown
into boiling bouillon.
If you decide to make the lasagna in the top portion of couscousiere
and the sauce in the bottom portion, it is best to use lightly oiled fresh
pasta sheets. This recipe assumes you
will boil the lasagna. The reason you
are boiling "no-boil" lasagna (if not using homemade lasagna sheets) is because
the manufacturer assumes you will be baking the lasagna rather than cooking it
in this manner. Because there are no
guidelines for boiling times on packages of no-boil lasagna, you must check
often to ensure that the pasta is cooked just past the al dente stage, which
will be about 6 minutes.
[photo: Clifford A. Wright]
Yield: Makes 6 to 8 servings
Preparation Time: 2:30 hours
| 1 | pound calf's or lamb's brains, any sinewy tissue removed if necessary or veal sweetbread
| | | | | 1/4 | cup freshly squeezed lemon juice | | | | | 1/2 | cup extra virgin olive oil | | | | | 1 | medium-size onion, finely chopped | | | | | | Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste | | | | | 1 | tablespoon harisa | | | | | 2 | teaspoons cayenne pepper | | | | | 1/4 | teaspoon freshly ground cumin seeds |
| | | 1/4 | teaspoon freshly ground caraway seeds | | | | | 3 | cups canned or fresh tomato puree | | | | | 1 | tablespoon tomato paste | | | | | 1 | cup drained cooked chickpeas | | | | | 4 | cups water | | | | | 3/4 | pound boiling potatoes, peeled and diced | | | | | 1 | pound thin fresh homemade lasagna sheets or commercial "no-boil" (instant) lasagna | | | | | 1/2 | cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Gruyè
1. Soak the brains in cold
water to cover acidulated with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice for 1 hour,
changing the water every 15 minutes and adding another tablespoon lemon juice
each time.
2. Place the brains in a
medium-size pot of cold water to cover and bring to a very gentle boil. Reduce the heat to under a boil and poach the
brains until firm to the touch, about 20 minutes. Drain, then dice once cool enough to
handle. Set aside.
3. In the bottom part of a couscousiere
or in a large pot fitted with a colander if using freshly made lasagna, or in a
large casserole if using no-boil lasagna, heat the olive oil over medium heat,
then cook the onion until translucent, about 8 minutes, stirring
occasionally. Add the salt and pepper, harīsa,
cayenne, cumin, and caraway, stir well, add the tomato purée and tomato paste,
chick-peas, and 1 cup of the water, and cook for 10 minutes. Add the remaining 3 cups water, cover, and
cook for 15 minutes. Add the brains and
potatoes and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, bring a large
pot of water to a rolling boil if using no-boil lasagna, salt abundantly, and
add the lasagna. Drain when cooked a bit
more than al dente, about 6 minutes, and cut crosswise into squares. If using fresh lasagna, cut into small
squares, toss with a little olive oil, and place in the top portion of the couscousiere
or in the colander and steam until the squares are soft, 10 to 15 minutes,
tossing occasionally so they don't stick together.
5. Transfer the cooked
lasagna to the bottom portion of the couscousiere or pot or to the
casserole, mix well with the brains and potatoes, and serve immediately with
the grated cheese on top.
Variation:
Note:
Posted: 01/04/2007
Needed Recipes:
Harisa
Cucina Paradiso is a cookbook, not some dry, dull gastronomic text. The recipes are seductively written, and powerfully appealing. And Wright’s refreshing lack of arrogance...is a rarity among food writers today.
- Robin Mather, The Detroit News
Just like what’s happening with barbecue and grilling books (and Italian cookbooks), publishers feel obliged to regularly come out with books covering the same subject over and over again. This is because it is difficult to keep books in print, and older books (with a few exceptions, like The Joy of Cooking) are simply not as marketable as newer books. That said, Wright’s collection of hot and spicy recipes from around the world [Some Like it Hot] is much like the dozens that have come before it. It is comprehensive and the recipes look like they are authentic and complete, with a lot of anecdotal information to delight the reader. ... Anyone who can write a chapter title like “Hot Chicks, Wicked Ducks, and Killer Rabbits” gets a pat on the back from me!
- Dave DeWitt, author of The Chile Pepper Encyclopedia; Fiery-Foods.com
(View all)
| |
