
Àrista
Region: Italy, Tuscany
Category: Pork-Grilled
Season: Any
Difficulty: Labor Intensive
This roast pork loin, a traditional Sunday dish in Arezzo and Florence in Tuscany, can also be grilled instead of spit-roasted. The loin should be cut from the bone and weigh between 3 and 4 pounds.
One explanation behind the name Àrista is that it originated during a banquet of the Ecumenical council in Florence in 1430 when several Greek bishops exclaimed aristos ("the best" in Greek) when they ate this dish. Like all of the culinary-invention stories, this one seems fanciful. Giordano di Pisa had already used the word Àrista in 1304 to describe a butcher's cut of pork back. In reality the etymology is unknown but thought to be pre-Indo-European.
The spit-roasted or grilled pork can also be eaten at room temperature. Twenty-four hours of marinating permeates the loin with flavor while spit-roasting keeps the meat moist and succulent. This recipe is a favorite with guests and frees the host or hostess from lots of hands-on cooking. Don't forget to let the loin rest before carving, to let the juices settle.
Àrista is delightful with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms and roast potatoes.
[photo: Dennis M. Gottlieb, in Clifford A. Wright, Grill Italian]
Yield: Makes 6 to 8 servings
Preparation Time: 2 days
One 4-pound whole boneless pork loin, rib half, split open halfway (not all the way through) lengthwise
6 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
6 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
6 sprigs fresh rosemary
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 pound pork fat, cut into thin strips or slices
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
2 bay leaves, crumbled
Salt
1. Lay the pork loin in front of you with the split side up. Spread the parsley, garlic, and leaves from 2 rosemary sprigs down the center. Pepper to taste and close the loin up, holding it in place with toothpicks. Lay the slices of pork fat over the cut side the length of the loin. Place the remaining sprigs of rosemary over the loin and tie tightly in three places with butcher's twine. Remove the toothpicks.
2. Place the loin in a 9 x 12-inch ceramic or glass baking pan and add the olive oil, white wine, and bay leaves. Leave to marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 24 hours, turning several times. Remove the loin from the refrigerator 15 minutes before spit-roasting.
3. Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire or preheat a gas grill for 15 minutes on medium. Set up the rotisserie attachment.
4. Remove the loin from the marinade and reserve the marinade. Secure the loin firmly to the spit, making sure the weight is evenly distributed so that the spit will rotate smoothly. Be sure the holding prongs on each end are tight and grip the loin solidly. If necessary, tie the loin to the spit with butcher's twine so it will not slide while the spit rotates. Salt and pepper to taste.
5. Place an aluminum drip pan on the grilling grate underneath the meat. Spit-roast until a meat thermometer registers an internal temperature of 175 degrees F, about 2 hours. Baste every 15 minutes with some of the marinade mixed with pan juices collected in the drip pan. Remove the loin from the spit and let rest for 20 minutes before slicing. Carve into 3/8-inch-thick slices and serve.
Variation:
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Posted: 12/28/2006
Referenced Recipes: