Swordfish in Tomato Vinegar Sauce
Pesce Spada alla Stemperata
Region: Italy, Sicily
Category: Seafood
Season: Any
Difficulty: Easy

In eastern Sicily, in the city of Syracuse, stemperata refers to Syracusean method of cooking that means something like “melting sauce.” The idea behind “melting sauce” is to meld a number of aromatic ingredients together by cooking slowly until the sauce or food is infused with flavor. The dish is finished with a sprinkle of vinegar that evaporates, or “melts,” into the sauce. Whenever you see a dish described as stemperata, you know it is a dish from Syracuse. The concept of stemperata finds its roots in medieval cooking. According to the then prevailing theory of dietetics founded upon the thinking of the second-century Greek physician Galen, prepared food had properties that would match the temperament of the person eating it. Certain foods were ideal for particular conditions or temperaments. The nature of foods could be changed by tempering the food with additions such as sauces or spicing. In medieval Italian cookbooks one runs across the term temperare, which takes on a greater meaning than “to temper.” It implies that one corrects the food so it will conform to a dietetic humoral notion. So the Italian stemperare has the sense of taking something away, and in this recipe it is the vinegar that “is taken away” through evaporation to moderate the taste of the sauce.

[photo: Clifford A. Wright]

Yield: Makes 4 to 6 servings
Preparation Time: 35 minutes

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1/2 celery stalk, finely chopped

1 1/2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and chopped if large

10 large green olives, pitted and chopped

1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

1/3 cup water

1 1/2 pounds swordfish steaks, cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices

All-purpose flour for dredging

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1. In a large sauté pan or earthenware casserole, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat, then cook, stirring frequently, the onion and celery until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. (If using earthenware and if it is not flameproof, or if you don't know, you will need to use a heat diffuser. Earthenware heats up slower but retains its heat longer than non-earthenware casseroles. When using earthenware, food may cook slower at first and then cook very quickly while retaining its heat, so adjust accordingly). Reduce the heat to medium, add the capers, olives, and tomatoes, and stir. Pour in the water, stir again, and cook until denser, 10 minutes.

2. Dredge the swordfish slices in the flour, tapping off any excess flour. Set aside.

3. Arrange the swordfish slices in the pan or casserole on top of the sauce, spooning some sauce on top of the swordfish. Drizzle the vinegar over the fish, cover, and cook until the vinegar is evaporated, 5 to 6 minutes. Serve hot.

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Posted: 08/14/2015